I think this may have been the bottle that convinced me I would collect fragrances. Part of my original comforting holy Trinity. Which included Spicebomb Extreme and SWY Intensley. I guess these warm comforting Winter fragrances are my vibe? TMW parfum landed in 2022 as a denser, more concentrated take on the Wanted family, composed by Michel Girard, Nadège Le Garlantezec, Shyamala Maisondieu, and Roxanne Kirkpatrick. It opens with a sharp, almost electric hit of red ginger, then quickly folds into glowing woody notes that add warmth and structure without turning heavy or resinous. The dry-down is where the bourbon takes over, giving the whole thing a smooth, slightly gourmand finish that stays masculine instead of tipping into pure dessert territory. What makes this one interesting is how cleanly it balances its three main pillars. The ginger keeps things from getting too syrupy, the woods prevent the vanilla from feeling cheap or cloying, and the higher concentration gives it real staying power. I get an easy six to seven hrs on skin with solid projection for the first few. It sits in that sweet-spot between modern designer crowd-pleaser and something a bit more grown-up; the toffee-like warmth that creeps in around the middle adds a quiet richness that works especially well in cooler weather or evening settings without shouting for attention the way some of its sweeter siblings do. The black barrel bottle with its amber-tinted juice just looks the part. Its simple, solid, and recognizably Azzaro. The scent itself delivers on the “most wanted” promise without overcomplicating the formula. It’s not trying to reinvent the wheel; it just refines a familiar spicy-sweet profile into something more focused and wearable. If you like warm, spicy vanillas that still feel sharp and present rather than soft and cuddly, this one earns its place. My Rating 9/10 Scent 3 Longevity 2.5 Sillage 2.5 Would I rebuy? 1

After a pleasant day of sporting A Whiff of Waffle Cone by Imaginary Authors, tonight I'm wearing By The Fireplace by Maison Margiela. Both fragrances are warming and friendly and scratch similar itches, but the Replica scent is more coded towards evening wear. Top Notes: Clove, Pink Pepper, Orange Blossom Absolute Heart Notes: Gaiac Wood, Chestnut, Cade Juniper Base Notes: Vanilla, Cashmeran, Peru Balsam It strikes quite hard from the off with a swirling but cosy smokiness from the clove-and-pepper combo. It's a warming scent, quite welcoming, and this is backed up by the developing chestnut and vanilla gourmand notes. These bring an opulent autumnal holiday vibe, backed with the delicate fir pine backing. It's a Christmas scent, a Christmas scene, a festive fragrance throughout. At an EDT strength, you'd expect the performance to be of secondary importance, but there's nothing lacking here. It hangs around for a good long while, projecting at every step. Of course, it helps that it leans into the most strident of scent profiles, but promising isn't the same as achieving so it's good that it delivers. I particularly enjoy the personal bubble on this scent, as on me at least it hugs hard and lingers long. I love this scent. It's my favourite Replica fragrance by a fair margin, and it's one I return to often as the nights start to lengthen. I had hoped that Jazz Club would also join it on the shelf, but as an ex-smoker that scent comes across more ashtray than speak-easy to my nose. I am currently enjoying the new Lost Eden by the house, maybe that'll be the second bottle I buy from these guys. Rating: 8.5/10. Would I rebuy? Yes. What about you? Which Maison Margiela fragrances stand out in your collections?

I broke two of my own rules this month. First buying more than one fragrance (this one and the Guerlain L'Homme Idéal Cologne Forte), and buying both of them blind based solely on other brothers' reviews here. I'm happy to report they didn't steer me wrong. This is a brand-new 2026 release from perfumers Alberto Morillas and Nathalie Lorson, and my first impression is very positive. It opens fresh and aromatic with bergamot, lavender, and violet leaf, but the real attraction for me is the drydown. Vanilla, patchouli, woods, and a smoky leather accord give it warmth, sweetness, and just enough darkness to keep it interesting. It's modern, masculine, smooth, and very easy to like. Maybe not a fragrance designed to challenge you, but that's hardly a criticism when something simply smells this good. Performance also seems quite strong from my first wearing. And I already know exactly who is going to love this one: my fiancée. This has "Michelle fragrance" written all over it—warm, slightly sweet, masculine, and noticeable. I suspect this one is going to get a very enthusiastic reaction the next time we're together. Really happy with this purchase. And I had to work hard to avoid all the low-hanging fruit jokes about the name.

Match #57 brings us back to the main bracket for the first Quarterfinal: Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Elixir versus Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême. And these two could hardly have more different personalities. Le Male Elixir is the brash teenager who kicks open the classroom door and announces his arrival. Sweet, powerful, and impossible to ignore, its combination of vanilla, honey, tobacco, and tonka is fantastic in cold weather. In the middle of winter, there are plenty of days when I'd happily reach for it. Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême is the quietly confident silver fox professor. He walks into the lecture hall without making a fuss—and then spends the next hour mesmerizing everyone with his elegance and eloquence. Mandarin, mint, cypress, tonka, musk, and woods create something smoother and more restrained, but no less compelling. And that's ultimately the difference for me. Le Male Elixir may be more immediately exciting, but the Chanel is easier to wear, more versatile, and more sophisticated. I can imagine reaching for it in far more situations and across far more of the year. I'm sure there will be people jeering from the cheap seats over this decision, but I'm sticking with it. Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême advances to the Semifinals. Le Male Elixir isn't finished yet—it drops into the second-chance bracket, where it will get another opportunity to fight its way back. The silver fox takes down the teenager.

I'll be totally honest here, my first impression of this sucked. It smelled like old dirty coins. Luckily I'm a Sauvage fan and a lady at the Dior counter got me to try it on skin. Well I'm sure glad I did. Extrait is pure genius. A redemption of you will after the Eau Forte debacle andFrancis Kurkdjian's best work since taking over as creative director from Demachy. This is a darker evelution of the Sauvage story. But it takes a different direction from previous flankers, with the addition of oud. None of that Middle Eastern stuff that you find in all those Lataffa's. I won't bore you with the Dior propaganda, but they did good here. It opens with the familiar dna, Calabrian bergamot, Provençal lavender & a touch of Ambroxan. Just so you know you're in Sauvage territory. But it's a more refined opening than before. Then the shift happens. That Vietnamese Oud hits centre stage. Its resinous rich & a touch smokey. But instead of screaming it's arrived it plays a supporting role wrapping the heart with an unexpected warmth. The dry-down is where it settles into its true form. A combination of Virginia cedar, Indonesian patchouli, and Madagascar vetiver add a dense, earthy, multi-layered woody base that anchors everything beautifully . The Ambroxan keeps that signature salty warmth alive throughout, but the oud and patchouli give it real gravity. Performance is massive easily 8+ hours and it leaves a rich, intimate trail. Kurkdjian hasn't just cranked up the volume; he's added depth and darkness while keeping the soul intact. This might turn out to be the best Sauvage in years. My Rating 9/10 Scent 3 Longevity 2.5 Sillage 2.5 Would I rebuy? 1