Hi! I am a young homeowner (about 2 years now) and when my wife and I were getting the general inspection it was noted that our AC used R-22 refrigerant and might need to be replaced if it started leaking. After hearing how much it would cost to replace a system (and having some ideas of my own for improving IAQ) I have started down the road of getting prepared for a DIY replacement should that happen in the near future. From reading a few posts it sounds like getting the universal EPA 608 is a good first step. Are there any recommendations for online training courses that teach the material well? A quick search showed SkillCat but I am curious if anyone had any preferences. Thanks!

Condensation issues - Flashes 'FL' and compressor stops cooling until I pull drain plug and put bucket underneath, which lets the water drain and the unit returns to cooling normally. I think there's a pump which may have failed due to blockage. Any info on how to open / inspect / repair?

I wanted to share a DIY HVAC success story from our home in Central Florida. We have a 1,775-square-foot house with a 3-ton, single-stage Bryant system. For a long time, the house never seemed to perform as well as it should. The AC would run short cycles, humidity was inconsistent, some rooms were uncomfortable, and the system seemed to struggle even though it was technically cooling. Instead of immediately replacing the equipment, I started collecting data. I installed an Ecobee thermostat and placed multiple temperature and humidity sensors throughout the house, including the bathrooms, bedrooms, living areas, garage, and attic. I also used a thermal camera, an anemometer, a manometer, and temperature probes to start identifying where the house and duct system were losing performance. Here is what we found: • Several supply registers and return grilles were leaking air around the drywall openings. • The fireplace chase was open to the attic and allowing hot, humid attic air into the conditioned space. • Bathroom exhaust ducts and exterior terminations had damper and sealing issues. • The kitchen range hood had been running continuously and was depressurizing the house. • Some attic insulation had been disturbed or compressed. • The AC blower speed had a major effect on both temperature control and humidity. • The garage door, wall penetrations, and other envelope areas also needed attention. We sealed the supply and return openings, sealed the fireplace chase from above and below, corrected the bathroom exhaust venting, installed proper exterior dampers, sealed penetrations, and stopped running the range hood continuously. We also tested different blower settings instead of assuming the highest airflow was automatically best. The results have been significant. The house now feels noticeably colder and more comfortable at the same thermostat setting. The AC cycles are more stable, room-to-room temperatures are more consistent, and the humidity is under better control. We are comfortable around 72°F without needing a separate whole-house dehumidifier.