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Make it Match

265 members • Free

2 contributions to Make it Match
Inner panels coating and finishing
I am looking closely at finishing off the internal cavity areas of my car body. I'd like to get feedback on what other people are doing in this regard and what products they use. I found a lot of info on what layer process should be used for the external finishing but internally things are not as clear.... I have given the insides of the body panels 2 coats of PPG epoxy primer. After scuffing with a red scotchbrite I was going to apply 2 or 3 heavy coats of uPol Gravitex. This would be applied to the insides of just about anywhere I can get to (inside rear quarters, inside door skins, pillars, front fenders), most of these areas would not get any other paint applied. However, areas that get seen such as inside the rear quarter panels (in the trunk area), would get colour/clear finish on top. So please share what you found works, what is best practice and products are junk and what works for you. Thanks,
0 likes • 5h
Hi Slava, I was going to finish the floors in a 2k finish and then apply a sound product such as dynamat, so no Gravitex on the floor areas. Is simply having the epoxy primer with Gravitex an adequate amount of cover/protection to the metal/panel.
Optimise or Replace - Spray gun
I'm an amateur painter, certainly no pro. Painted a couple of cars in the past but increasingly trying to get more specific and technical always wanting to make it better. I only have one "good" spray gun, a Devilbiss Pro Lite and it has a TE20 air cap, 1.3 paint nozzle. I've used this for everything from primers to topcoats. My current situation is should I buy different air caps for basecoat and for clear for the Pro Lite or should I buy a different gun? In saying that what would be the ideal air caps for the Pro Lite. I've heard people say a TE10 for basecoat and a T110 for clear ? I plan on spraying PPG Deltron solid color red basecoat (no metallic or pearls) and plan to finish off with a PPG clearcoat and I'm not sure which one yet. I would be spraying inside my shed, so no spray booth and no baking, Typical spraying temperature would be around 26'C (around 80'F). Any feedback on guns/gun setup or clearcoat/reducers ? Happy to provide any other details if it helps.........
0 likes • 8d
Thanks for the reply, When applying a clear how would you describe the difference between the TE20 and T110. I found on my last major paint job I got some massive runs when doing the clear. I was able to sand them out once dried but of course I'd rather avoid that. Reason for that was either I'm too slow with the gun or too open on the paint nozzle I think. It was a medium solids clear with medium reducer. This is why this time I'm looking to do reduce my chances of errors. Would you recommend I go with a medium or high solids clear in my case (least chance of getting application wrong). Do you have a PPG clear you would recommend? Thanks.
0 likes • 6d
Thanks. Very nice finish on the Camaro. I will research the clear product. I'm not familiar enough with different products to mix and match so I think I"ll just stick to one manufacturer and hopefully that will prevent mismatch errors. Last car I used the DeBeer product, mainly because it was really easy to source from a local supplier. Personally I found the clear to be easy to scratch ?? This time I'll go PPG.
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Robert Cencic
1
3 points to level up
@robert-cencic-5780
Located in western Sydney Australia. Wanting to learn more about painting and the correct way to apply different products.

Active 4h ago
Joined Aug 26, 2026
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