How is Beckett grading going so far?

Hey everyone, I'm a beginner TCG flipper selling on eBay, based in Australia. One thing that makes it tougher here is that PSA grading takes a few months to come back, so grading isn't a quick way to turn cards over. I mainly try to flip One Piece (so far unsuccessfully) and I've recently started getting into Riftbound as well. My only profitable flip so far was a Boa Hancock card from the tin. I found it at a card show for $140 AUD and sold it for $220 AUD. Other than that, I've mostly just been losing money. The main problem is that card shows seem to overprice most of their stock, so it's hard to find real deals. Card shops price their cards really well too, so there's not much margin there either. Right now I'm just buying whatever I think will move, like Boa, Luffy and Zoro. I'm starting with a $1000 budget, and I'd love to know what your strategy is for finding deals: - Are you sourcing mostly from eBay, card shows, Facebook Marketplace, or somewhere else? - Do you buy sealed product and flip singles, or buy singles directly? - Any tips for someone in Australia dealing with the long grading times? Any advice is appreciated, thanks!

I found this card on eBay months ago and sent it through AI to see what I might get psa wise. I never had the card personally, only the eBay listing. It was a 70%+ chance of getting a 10 from ChatGPT perspective so I rolled the dice to see what would happen. I got a 10! I’ve never graded this way before and it is a newer feature on eBay but it went well the first time. So I decided to go again using the same method. I prefer to see the cards up close and be able to clean them myself, but this worked. I can’t say it will work every time but it is a method. Sending this card from eBay to psa worked once. I’ll keep testing it and see what happens then post my results here.

I had forgotten about this submission. I got a call from GameStop, “we have your cards ready for pickup.” “Sweet! Wait what cards?” “You have 23 cards back from PSA.” “I love you…” “I love you too.” “On my way.” I have a really good relationship with the people at this GameStop 😆 19 PSA 10’s 4 less than 10 My percentage of spotting a 10 is 82.6 percent on this batch. I was at 60% when I first started. 60% wasn’t great but it was good enough to get me started on this path. Now time to put them on eBay and make some sales.

Here recently I had a customer show me all of the cards he bought and was intending to sell. And because he approached me with them I had to tell him they were all fake. The cards that I have posted below are the fakes. The real cards have texture to them. This guy was fairly angry about this purchase because these cards (when real) are expensive. I don’t know what he paid, but I can tell you that he over paid. Another way to tell is to take a flash light and shine it through the card. A real Pokemon card shows no light through it. Fake cards will show light through them most of the time. The last way you should ever tell if a card is fake or not is to rip it in half. Something that these people that produce fake cards haven’t been able to duplicate is Pokémon’s ability to make the inner most layer of Pokemon cards black. That’s right, when you rip a real Pokemon card in half you will see that it’s ripped will black on the interior layer. Fake cards from what I have seen thus far haven’t been able to do that. Not that I rip every potentially fake card in half. Unless I am at a show and someone is knowingly trying to sell fakes; I’ll rip them in half so that other vendors don’t get screwed over on accident. Just be weary and learn what the fakes like ok like. Take one of your bulk cards and rip in half to see what I’m talking about. It’ll save you some money in the long run knowing what’s real and what’s not.