Supports that fuse to your model is not only incredibly frustrating, but it’s also a waste of material if they genuinely don’t come off and you just wasted material and time. This is a Z distance problem, and it's one setting you should know. In Bambu Studio, under Support, look for Top Z distance in Process > Support. This setting controls the vertical air gap between the top of the support and where it makes contact with your model. - Set to 0 — the support is welded to the part. It will not come off cleanly. Ever. This is ONLY used when you are using the more advanced method of multi-material supports (not covered here). - Set to one layer height (0.2mm if you're printing at 0.2mm) — supports hold the overhang up, then snap off with your fingers. This is what you want. Increase this by 0.25mm yourself to add distance or decrease it by the same increments to tighten the gap. One trade off here is appearance, if the setting is too high, the first layer of the model printed onto the support may have visible drooping. Lower settings can risk more fusion but will result in a cleaner 1st layer where the model meets the supports top. There are really excellent ways to almost completely remove issues with support scaring (the result of the support coming off the material) or low quality in the areas supports were; but I will cover that in another course. You can also use calibration files like https://makerworld.com/en/models/873128-test-supports?from=search#profileId-825432 which let’s you print test models with varying Top Z Distance to see which is right for your filament; as it can depend by filament as well. This MakerWorld model also has lots of user posting their results so you can more easily see the direct result of these changes

Have you ever found yourself in a situation where the infill % or # of walls being applied to the entire file (Global tab) or per mode (Object tab) just isn’t cutting it? Most beginners have exactly two mental settings — "fast and weak" or "slow and strong" — applied to the whole object. Modifiers are how you stop choosing. In cases where you have small parts that are part of a bigger model, chances are those smaller features are weaker than the rest. In the example below, it’s the highlighted “clip” part that will close this lead screw cleaner. With standard settings, we are only getting 3 walls and 15% infill globally. Sure that helps but what if we want it to be even stronger? This is where modifiers come in 🤯 If you Right Click on any part, you can sue the “Add modifier” feature to create a shape to cover a region of a single model and give just that region different settings. In the example in this posts images,, we want to add a modifier to just the area with the clip, setting it to 100% infill and Rectilinear pattern. This gives us strength exactly where it needs to be, fast and light everywhere else. Was this helpful? Can you see yourself using this or would have used it recently? 🤔

Some people have tried only one. Others have tried a dozen. Almost nobody is still using a dozen. I want to know what survived. Not what impressed you in the demo — what you opened again on a Tuesday when you had actual work to do. Mine, honestly: 1️⃣ Claude for anything involving code, writing, thinking through a problem, or brainstorming. 2️⃣ OpenArt for every image the business needs, either directly on OpenArt or through their new MCP. 3️⃣ Github Copilot for all non-Claude code needs or when I need to run sessions in parallel with different subscriptions. That's basically it. Everything else I've tried has been genuinely interesting and then quietly abandoned within a week or two. The pattern I've noticed in what sticks: 🔥 The tools I kept are the ones that slotted into something I was already doing. 👎🏼 The ones I dropped all required me to build a new habit around them first. ❓ So — what's still open in your tabs, and what did you quietly stop using? I'm as interested in the second one if you have some!

If you're printing straight from MakerWorld profiles and never touching settings, you are probably getting good results; but you're leaving a lot on the table. An example you can use today One of the first thing I always look at when I open a print from MakerWorld is the Sparse Infill. ❓What is Sparse Infill? Sparse Infill is the type of linework that goes inside the body of the model, giving it structure, strength and ensuring the walls have something to anchor to. You can control the Infill Pattern as well as the Infill % (plus a bunch of others but we will cover that another time). I attached an example of the 3 different infill patterns (Grid, Gyroid and Honeycomb) as well as 3 examples of Sparse Infill density and how it would look inside a cube model. ⬆️ The higher the value = the more filament it uses and the stronger the model become. 💪🏼 ⬇️ The lower the value = less filament is used and you can lose some strength. 🫰🏼 Always keep your sparse infill above 5% and you rarely need to increase it past 15% except for models that will take on stress like shelves, brackets etc. That's one thing out of a full free course: 3D Printing 101 — Level Up Your Bambu Studio Skills. It's free, and like the rest of the free library it opens at Level 2 — which you reach just by being active here. Comment on this or anything else and you're on your way! 🔰 If you've been printing a while: what's the setting you learned late that you wish you'd known on day one?