This week, we’re tackling another one of the foundational structures of classical perfumery: the Chypre! The classic Chypre is built around a beautiful contrast: a bright citrus opening against a dark, earthy, mossy base. For this challenge, we’re going to work with the traditional Chypre backbone and see how much character you can create with only 5 materials. THE CHALLENGE Create a 5-material Chypre accord using: 1. Bergamot 2. Labdanum 3. Oakmoss 4. Patchouli 5. One material of your choice Bergamot, labdanum,patchouli, and oakmoss are mandatory. The remaining material are entirely up to you. THE GOAL The purpose of this exercise is to understand the architecture of a Chypre, not simply to make something that smells good. Pay attention to what each of the three pillars contributes. Bergamot provides brightness, freshness, and contrast. Labdanum adds warmth, resinous depth, and body. Oakmoss provides the characteristic dry, earthy, mossy foundation that helps define the Chypre structure. Your final material are where you get to give the accord its personality. Want to make it floral? Try a rose or jasmine material. Want something darker? Explore woods, leather, smoke, or spice. Want something fruity? See how a fruit material changes the character while maintaining the recognizable Chypre backbone. THINGS TO THINK ABOUT How much bergamot do you need to create enough contrast with the darker base? How much oakmoss can you introduce before it dominates? How do you use labdanum without allowing the composition to become simply an amber? What are your final two materials contributing to the structure? And most importantly: Can you give your Chypre a distinct personality while still keeping its classical structure recognizable? There is no single correct formula. Experiment with the proportions, evaluate your accord over time, and take notes on how the materials interact. When you’re finished, share your formula in the comments and tell us which two additional materials you chose and why!

Hi colleges, after a week maturating in the freezer , here’s the results of the damascone rose destilation. Next to it , from the 50 grams of Madagascar bourbon Vanella extract, a 10grams of absolute in dpg , at 10%.

How much quantity should a first timer order from each of the recommended materials? Is 10 grams too little? Is 50 grams too much?

What is one material you are obsessed with right now? For me, it would have to be Hedione HC or Jasmine Grandiflorum Absolute. These are materials I have used extensively and haven't reached for them in particular in a little while. Now when I am playing around in the Lab, I have a hard time not including them in anything and everything. Methyl Nicotinate has also been something that has been interesting to play with. It is not very often you find an aroma chemical that fits a bill of a whole note, but this one is a very very very dry tobacco with almost a super amber feel. Super intriguing.