Congrats! That looks great from my screen. I've always been a fan of the OBS trucks, my first truck was a '94. Glad some of the tips helped 😎🔥

Interesting question! Two things come to mind. The Black Widow is an excellent gun, but it’s not the most efficient. It’ll absolutely go up against the best of them, but similar to the SATA 5000/5500, you really need a decent amount of exhaust airflow in your space to get phenomenal results. I’d describe the Black Widow as almost a hybrid between a DeVilbiss GTi ProLite with a 1.3mm tip/T110 air cap and a WS400. The PRD-817 leans more toward the characteristics of a WS400, with a massive fan pattern and excellent atomization. The key is that you need to reduce the fluid flow through the gun by roughly half to really make it sing.I run the fan pattern completely open and about 1.4 bar (~20 PSI) at the inlet. I’ve been really happy with the results I’ve gotten from it. That said, Porphis also sent me their newer PRD-725, which I’m currently working on a video about. So I’ll have some more thoughts on that one soon. If you do get the itch to try one of their guns, they've given me a code - makeitmatch - that you can use at checkout for 5% off. I’m not trying to push their products though. At the end of the day, an older ProLite, and plenty of other guns, can produce absolutely phenomenal results as well. Just my two cents!

I've been thinking a lot about this - it's a tricky area. One thought - when the roof panel and quarter panels were replaced, how large were the plug weld holes and did the new panels get welded all the way to the inner structure? The metal there should be three or four layers thick if my memory serves me right. I wonder that joint is moving around more than it should?

That's good news at least, I was thinking perhaps the outer quarter and roof skin might have come detached from the structure behind it. Still, not a fun re-do, the only thing worse is having to re-do drip rails where the seam sealer cracked. It certainly could be poor adhesion. I think the more modern approach (likely with better results) would be to apply a few coats of epoxy primer over the bare metal (cleaned properly) at 80-120 grit, let that cure for a few days, and then come back and sand it with no finer than 180 grit, clean, and apply filler to the epoxy. Then, you get the best of both worlds - corrosion protection, chemical and mechanical adhesion to the metal. Either way, I'd definitely blend the basecoat out into the roof and down the rear pillars of the mustang, and then re-clear both quarters, the rear deck filler panel, and the roof all at once.

Not a bad idea! One other idea is buying one used from government surplus. I actually found mine at a local habitat for humanity, but govdeals usually has quite a few up for action at any given time. Sometimes you have to be creative with search terms to find them, like use the words 'safety storage cabinet' or the like to get more results.

Welcome! Glad you’re here😎