I am looking closely at finishing off the internal cavity areas of my car body. I'd like to get feedback on what other people are doing in this regard and what products they use. I found a lot of info on what layer process should be used for the external finishing but internally things are not as clear.... I have given the insides of the body panels 2 coats of PPG epoxy primer. After scuffing with a red scotchbrite I was going to apply 2 or 3 heavy coats of uPol Gravitex. This would be applied to the insides of just about anywhere I can get to (inside rear quarters, inside door skins, pillars, front fenders), most of these areas would not get any other paint applied. However, areas that get seen such as inside the rear quarter panels (in the trunk area), would get colour/clear finish on top. So please share what you found works, what is best practice and products are junk and what works for you. Thanks,

Okay, a short introduction. I live in Europe, Hungary. I am renovating my previously used Alfa Romeo 155 with Busso engine. The bodywork was done by someone else, but unfortunately he only did a mediocre job. I have already finished the complete sanding, priming and puttying of the bodywork. I also have the undercoat. The paint (Alfa 431/A bleu spazio metallic) and the topcoat will follow soon. I use the PPG Deltron materials that were originally used for all painting.

So I restored my 1973 Mach 1 in 2020-2021, and the guys who did the paint did a really nice job. The roof panel and both quarters were replaced, and the joint was welded solid. The joint that had originally been filled with lead was filled with long-strand fiberglass filler that was covered with a layer of short-strand fiberglass filler and finally Rage Ultra body filler. The passenger side is perfect. The driver side started showing the outline of the joint late last fall, and now has progressed to cracking the paint. I know that I will have to sand it down and grind it out to get to the root of the problem and correct it. My question is, after I repair the problem, and blend out the panel(s), will I have to blend the entire roof and both quarters together? I have heard that only clearing the repainted areas will allow the transitions to show up in some lighting conditions. If I have to scuff and reclear the roof and both quarters I will, I just want to confirm that that is what I'll have to do. Thanks in advance.

After reviewing the classroom section on air supply and moisture eradication, I have questions about the actual diameter needed. The RapidAire supply line that you listed at the beginning of the article is a 3/4 diameter. The air hose that's listed is a 3/8" line. Just wondering if there is a reason to start with the 3/4 supply. if so, do you step down at the filtration process? That wasn't mentioned in the reading (or maybe I missed it). Would a 1/2" supply work just as well? FYI. My guns require 12.xx CFM, My compressor carries 18 CFM @90psi.

Happy Saturday! New one just went up on YouTube. It's a long one, and it's really two halves: every tape I use and why each one exists, then a 2013 BRZ masked start to finish for a full exterior respray. The idea I keep coming back to in it is that masking isn't about protecting the car. It's about deciding where the paint ends. Once you start thinking about it that way, the tape you reach for and where you put the break both change. Some of what's in there: - Why tape stiffness decides whether tape follows a curve or fights it - The two widths that cover almost everything, 18 and 36 mm - False edges, and why they usually beat foam - The third-line system: vinyl makes the edge, regular tape holds the rest down - The wet edge, and why the fine-line tape comes off before the clear sets up - Jambs, frameless doors, glass, wheels, and everything below the rocker - The walk-around before the paint goes down One more thing: If you're on Make It Match Premium: under Courses there's a folder called the Vault. That's where I put the downloadable reference guides that go with these videos, and the masking one is in there now. It's the whole process as a printable field guide, plus a troubleshooting page and a checklist you can stick on the booth wall. There are guides in there for a few of my other videos too, so it's worth a scroll if you haven't been in lately. Have a look and let me know what you think. If I glossed over something you're stuck on, ask in the comments and I'll help out 😎