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Q&A w/Aaron is happening in 7 days
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👋 Welcome to Make It Match!
Glad you're here! Whether you're just getting started with automotive painting or you've been spraying for years, this community is built to help you learn, improve, and connect with other painters who enjoy the craft. Take a minute to introduce yourself by leaving a comment below. We'd love to get to know you! Tell us: ✅ Your full name ✅ Where you're based ✅ A little about your background ✅ What brought you to Make It Match (or what you're hoping to learn) ✅ What's one paint job you've seen that you'll never forget? Everyone starts somewhere, and introductions are a great way to meet other members. Welcome aboard! 🎉
91 Silverado
Bought this truck for my son and painted it yesterday , we have been working on it for about 3 months now. The information I’ve gotten from the course has really helped give me a better understanding painting. Thanks you the tips and advise.
91 Silverado
Dura-Gold Sandpaper any good?
I expect it's a mid-grade product, but I figured that I would ask the collective. Dura-Gold is everywhere, so it's easy to get. But is it any good? Better than Harbor Freight, not as good as 3M? Fine for a daily driver, not worth the time/money for a nice project? Any experience?
Black Widow HTE vs Porphis PRD-817
I watched Aaron's review of the Porphis PRD-817 spray gun recently, and after he got it dialed in, he seemed to like it for clearcoat. I have pretty much zero experience painting. I do have the Black Widow HTE, but I saw some guys on YouTube talking about it laying down material more slowly. My current project is a 1986 F150, and I will be spraying the entire truck and that is a lot of surface area. Since I have a bunch of projects in my future that will need painting, I was wondering would it be worth it to get the PRD-817 to use as a dedicated clear gun? Also, I wonder where Aaron would put it in his rankings of guns he's used. I know he really like the Black Widow HTE. Should I just stick with that? Thoughts, anyone?
Paint cracking at roof/quarter panel junction
So I restored my 1973 Mach 1 in 2020-2021, and the guys who did the paint did a really nice job. The roof panel and both quarters were replaced, and the joint was welded solid. The joint that had originally been filled with lead was filled with long-strand fiberglass filler that was covered with a layer of short-strand fiberglass filler and finally Rage Ultra body filler. The passenger side is perfect. The driver side started showing the outline of the joint late last fall, and now has progressed to cracking the paint. I know that I will have to sand it down and grind it out to get to the root of the problem and correct it. My question is, after I repair the problem, and blend out the panel(s), will I have to blend the entire roof and both quarters together? I have heard that only clearing the repainted areas will allow the transitions to show up in some lighting conditions. If I have to scuff and reclear the roof and both quarters I will, I just want to confirm that that is what I'll have to do. Thanks in advance.
Paint cracking at roof/quarter panel junction
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